As you might know, Nathan Sutherland enjoys an occasional drink. So, too, does David Hewson’s Arnold Clover (he’s even been known to go to the same wine shop that I use). What, then, could be more natural than to arrange a couple of crime-based cocktail evenings (or should that be cocktail-based crime evenings?) at this year’s Venice Noir.

First up, here’s David with his favourite places to eat and drink, and news of a special event on the Friday night.

My first recommendation is don’t dine near the Piazza San Marco unless you know what you’re doing. Outside the hotels, some of the places are very touristy. But here’s an exception. Il Ridotto is a charming little restaurant in Campo Santi Filippo e Giacomo. Just nine tables so you must book and you’ll pay San Marco prices. But it’s a lovely spot and the Hotel Rio opposite was once home to Vivaldi.

I like to catch a boat to the Lido and enjoy the very local Al Merca, situated in the old market a ten-minute stomp from the vaporetto stop. Reliable local food, always a pasta dish and fish main course of the day, and there’s a very popular cichetti bar attached too. Best booked through Quandoo. That wonderful frittura mista at the top of the post is theirs. If the pasta of the day happens to be spaghetti alla busara, a dish from Trieste made with lagoon mantis shrimp, grab it. This is the one I had a while back and it was superb.

There’s always someone who wants meat, of course, and for that you need to find La Vacaria where you can even enjoy the legendary Fiorentina. It’s in an interesting out of the way location on the Fondamenta de L’ Arzere. Al Canton, the cafe next door is a great spot for lunch and breakfast too. The name, by the way, doesn’t just refer to the fact this is a meat restaurant. Not so long ago there used to be cows grazing in this area on the edge of Dorsoduro.

These are all serious restaurants but you can eat for a lot less. I love the traditional carbonara at Bakarò in Campo Santa Margherita — as good as any in Rome and you can eat outside in the square if the weather’s good enough. 

Margaret Duchamp (see if you can work out the name) is a great pub in the same square with a decent range of inexpensive panini and other light meals. Nearby you’ll also find good pub grub and excellent negronis in Cafe Noir and around the corner on the way to the Frari some of the best cicchetti in town at Bacarotto. Now for two places you’ll find Arnold Clover and Luca Volpetti visit regularly in my books. The Osteria ai Pugni is a long-time favourite bacarò with inexpensive lunchtime meals if you can get a table. And Adagio is the friendly cafe by the Frari they head for during breaks from the nearby Archivio di Stato. Nice cicchetti too…

If you crave a fancy three course lunch you’ll usually find a fantastic 40 euro menu at the close by Il Refettorio. This is a very pricey place run by the Majer chain in the evening, but much more affordable at lunchtime. They usually do octopus, below. Here’s the current lunchtime menu to whet your appetite..

Il Refettorio lunchtime menuDownload

And finally for a very memorable cocktail head for the beautiful old cafe of Il Mercante near the Frari. A very old establishment that used to be known as the Caffè del Frari, and in the 19th century had a famous cat visited by all manner of celebrities over the years.

Cin cin!

As those of you who follow my Venice novels might know, Nathan Sutherland does enjoy a drink. Negroni by preference, Spritz by necessity. Crimes, after all, are unlikely to be solved following a mid-morning Negroni.

This has, of course, meant a considerable amount of research on my part. But, in the cause of authenticity, that’s just the sort of thing a writer has to do from time to time. 

Now, if you’re attending the festival, you’re likely to be spending a lot of time in the area around the Ateneo Veneto. You’re going to need somewhere, then, to squeeze in a restorative drink and a bite to eat in between panels. Fortunately, the American Bar at the Taverna La Fenice is almost right next door, and they serve an excellent Spritz and cicchetti as well as more substantial bar snacks.

Of course, we’re only about five minutes walk from Piazza San Marco and you’re going to want to check that out. It’s very tempting to go to Florian or Quadri which indeed are lovely but you’ll be paying a lot for the experience. Instead, head for the Gran Caffè Lavena. And here’s a tip for you – don’t sit down but stand at the bar and you’re paying normal prices! They might even throw in some crisps. It was good enough for Richard Wagner and so it’s good enough for me. 

Head in the other direction, towards Campo Sant’Angelo, and you’ll come across Nathan Sutherland’s local the Caffè Brasilia (or “The Magical Brazilians) in the Rio Terà dei Assassini. It’s changed hands a few times over the years, but it’s still good. And you really do need to check out the Negronis here.

Head a bit further afield, over to Dorsoduro, and a Spritz outside Nico’s on the Zattere is always a pleasure on a fine day. However, should the weather drive you inside (and we are going to be in the middle of November after all), then why not check out “Corner Pub” (or, as Nathan calls it, “Church Pub”) in the Calle de la Chiesa. Alessandro, Virginia, Mercedes and the rest of the staff are all lovely, there’s a terrific selection of panini, focacce and polpette of every description, and Alessandro makes a mean Negroni!

Now, together with David’s recommendations, I think that should be enough to keep you comfortably fed and watered over the weekend. But if that isn’t enough, why not join us for two special cocktail evenings?

At 7pm on Friday 14^th, David will be in conversation with Ian Rankin at La Rivista Restaurant, Ca’ Pisani. You’ll definitely need to reserve for this one (at €30 per person), so write to ristorazione@capisanihotel.it .

Similarly, at  7pm on Saturday 15^th, Gregory Dowling and I will be discussing some of the great figures – and drinkers – in crime fiction. More than that, we’ll be unveiling the official cocktail of the festival in the wonderfully noir-ish space of the bar at the Palazzo Experimental on the Zattere. Again, spaces are verylimited for this one, so reserve your ticket (30 euros) by writing to adriatica@palazzoexperimental.com

We look forward to meeting you, hopefully over a drink or two, in Venice!